Where everything you need can be found. Where everything has its precise place. Where every element serves practicality. Where there is always space for us. Where you are always welcomed with warmth. The Stand fine dining restaurant, designed by Dóra Fónagy and Sarolta Bihary, is exactly that. By Zsuzsanna Molnár.
Even those less interested in the world of gastronomy may recognize the names Szulló Szabina and Széll Tamás, as they are among Hungary’s most esteemed fine dining chefs. Their names were once synonymous with the Onyx restaurant, which, under their leadership, earned a Michelin star, making them the first Hungarian chefs to receive this recognition. Széll was the first to represent Hungary at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or culinary competition. In 2016, he won the European final of the competition, and at the 2017 world finals in Lyon, he earned fourth place along with the special award for Best Meat Dish.
After a short detour from the fine dining world, Szulló and Széll opened their joint bistro, Stand 25, at the Hold Street Market last year. This detour, however, was brief. While running the bistro, they returned to fine dining this summer by opening Stand restaurant on Székely Mihály Street in Budapest’s 6th district.
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Interior design: Dóra Fónagy, Sarolta Bihary – Photo: Tamás Bujnovszky
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Interior design: Dóra Fónagy, Sarolta Bihary – Photo: Tamás Bujnovszky
The quality that Szulló and Széll represent in gastronomy demands a high-level environment to match. This environment was created by two architects and designers: Dóra Fónagy, whose interior designs have shaped multiple bistros and restaurants in Budapest, and Sarolta Bihary. According to lead designer Fónagy, the interior solutions and design reinforce the professionalism represented by the chefs and Ibolya Csahók, the restaurant manager.
At Stand, the art of cooking takes center stage—the unique know-how of master chefs. As a result, the restaurant features an open kitchen, allowing guests to witness the preparation of culinary specialties right before their eyes. Although the kitchen is separated from the dining area by glass walls, it does not feel like a glass cage keeping the guests at a distance. Thanks to the chefs’ intentional design, visitors can experience a professional kitchen while the soft design of the dining space evokes the feeling of being in a grandmother’s kitchen—where everything you need is at hand, everything has its place, everything serves practicality, and where you are always welcomed warmly, with space always reserved for you.
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Interior design: Dóra Fónagy, Sarolta Bihary – Photo: Tamás Bujnovszky
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Interior design: Dóra Fónagy, Sarolta Bihary – Photo: Tamás Bujnovszky
The sense of homeliness is reinforced by numerous interior design elements. One method is layering materials and colors, which can be observed, for example, in the harmony of the flooring, table legs, and tablecloths. These elements visually merge in a color cross-section, their shades and material qualities blending almost into one. Soft lighting not only expresses the cozy atmosphere but also helps expand the perception of the low-ceilinged space. Proper lighting application not only enlarges the room but also lightens and airy-ifies it.
At Stand, there are no harsh lights or harsh shadows; the space is illuminated by diffused and indirect lighting. This effect is achieved, among other things, by laser-cut, circular steel mesh panels suspended from the ceiling. The light is refracted and softened on the mesh wires. Panels are placed at varying heights, making the low ceiling almost imperceptible. The mesh panels of varying thickness and density can evoke numerous associations for visitors. Fónagy and Bihary aimed to create lighting reminiscent of natural settings, where sharp shadows are rare. Notably, the environmentally conscious copper-toned steel panels strongly reference copper, a material often used in gastronomic spaces.
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Interior design: Dóra Fónagy, Sarolta Bihary – Photo: Tamás Bujnovszky
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Interior design: Dóra Fónagy, Sarolta Bihary – Photo: Tamás Bujnovszky
The Stand dining area is divided into two parts. Next to the open kitchen, the section facing the street creates a more relaxed, “bistro-like” atmosphere, while the area behind the bar counter is more intimate. This space houses the wine coolers, which act as a partition between the kitchen and the dining area while still allowing seated guests a view of the chefs at work. Though this block does not connect to the outdoor space, guests still feel in touch with the surrounding environment, as the rear wall features a graphic of a street front, balancing the ambiance between the two dining spaces. This solution not only depicts a lively exterior space but also helps visually expand the small floor area.
The restaurant’s compact size presented a challenge to the designers. In addition to the previously mentioned solution, other strategies were employed to overcome this limitation. Mirrors, for instance, both practically enlarge the space and allow guests seated with their backs to the kitchen to catch glimpses of the activity. Mirrors are also present in the restroom, making its small area feel considerably larger. The washroom, like the cloakroom, is discreetly integrated, not as a separate area but as an object within the restaurant: externally glass-covered, continuously lit like a lamp fixture, subtly diverting attention from its original function. Such solutions are particularly elegant for a high-end fine dining space.
In decorating Stand’s interior, the owners participated alongside the designers. The shelves display glass objects and books chosen by them, reflecting their tastes. According to Fónagy, it is important for the owners to personalize and inhabit the space, letting their tastes manifest in objects, thereby creating a shared value between the design strategy and the gastronomic concept.
By Zsuzsanna Molnár